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Narayan, or Vishnu,
is the preserver of creation to
Hindus. His temple near Changu
village is often described as the
most ancient temple in the Kathmandu
Valley. A fifth century stone
inscription, the oldest to be
discovered in Nepal, is located in
the temple compound and it tells of
the victorious King Mandev. The
temple now covers sixteen hundred
years of Nepalese art history. The
temple, built around the third
century, is decorated by some of the
best samples of stone, wood, and
metal craft in the Valley. In the
words of one tourist guide, "When
you look upon Changu Narayan, you
observe the complete cultural
development of the Valley."
On the struts of the two-tiered
Changu Narayan Temple, are the ten
incarnations in which Narayan
destroyed evil-doers. A
sixth-century stone statue shows the
cosmic form of Vishnu, while another
statue recalls his dwarf incarnation
when he crushed the evil king Bali.
Vishnu as Narsingha disemboweling a
demon is particularly stunning. The
western bronze doors sparkle in the
evening sunlight, dragons decorate
the bells, and handsome devas stare
from the walls. Garuda, half man and
half bird, is the steed of Vishnu,
and his life-sized statue kneels
before the temple. The favourite of
many tourists is the statue of
Vishnu sitting astride his steed.
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