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An interesting
three-kilometer ( two-mile) walk
leads back to the city by way of the
giant Thangka Wall, the ruins of
Shigatse's citadel or dzong and an
open-air Tibetan market. It is
important to do the walk returning
from Tashilhunpo ( not starting from
Shigatse ) to maintain a clockwise
direction and avoid offending
pilgrims on the path.
A sandy road parallel to the west
wall of Tashilhunpo quickly becomes
a well-worn path leading up behind
the monastery, past prayer wheels
and shrines, to the foot of the
Thangka Wall, which cannot, however,
be entered. Many paths crisscross
Tara's Mountain above, up to the
sacred, flag-festooned peak. The
path divides at the Thangka Wall,
one branch descending beside the
easy wall to make a circle around
the monastery, the other continuing
level along the flank of the
mountain towards Shigatse. After
passing an array of carved and
painted rocks it emerges below the
rocky prominence that dominates the
city. Here a hiker can either climb
up to the ruins or take a right-hand
route down to the market.
The dzong, totally destroyed in
1961, was once a small Potala
covering the whole hilltop, with
up-sweeping white walls that seemed
to grow from the crags. It had a
central Red Palace and turret-like
fortifications at the outer ends.
The formidable structure was seen as
both a homage and a challenge to the
power of Lhasa embodied in the real
Potala. Only the foundations remain,
but the site offers a magnificent
view over Shigatse and its
surrounding valleys.
The market below, just south of the
dzong, consists of an organized
street with neat, covered stalls,
where Tibetan artifacts, jewelry,
cloth, leather, copperware, and
other items are for sale. Visitors
may find shopping here easier than
on the Barkhor in Lhasa. Prices are
all open to bargaining.
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