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In 1073 A.D.,
Gongjue Jiebu of the Kun family in
Tibet built a monastery on a meadow
shaped like a lying elephant on the
north bank of Zongqu River to teach
his new esoteric theory of Buddhism.
Gongjue Jiebu was convinced that the
monastery built on such a site would
light the mundane world. Because the
monastery was built by a chalky
hill, it was named Sakya, meaning
chalky earth in Tibetan. However,
few expected that it would later
become the name of a powerful
Buddhist denomination and ruling
house owing to a number of political
and religious factors. The Sakya
Monastery built by Gongjue Jiebu
(popular known as the North Temple)
became inadequate for rising and
evermore powerful Sakya
establishment. A larger monastery
which is still standing today was
built on the south bank of Zongqu
River by the Kun house and Pagpa, a
well-known Tibetan in the Mongolian
imperial court of the 13th century.
This monastery, now popularly known
as the South Sakya, sits against the
backdrop of snow-capped mountains
165 kilometers west of Shigatse.
In 1260 A.D., Pagpa was appointed
the imperial tutor and later an
official in charge of Buddhist
affairs in the land and ruler of
whole of Tibet by Kublai Khan, the
first emperor of the Yuan Dynasty.
In 1267, Pagpa returned to Tibet to
establish the Sakya Kingdom and a
Tibetan government subordinate to
Yuan Dynasty rule. A mural in the
monastery depicts the occasion when
Pagpa as the supreme ruler of the
region gave the commission to
Segasan Bu in 1288 for the
construction of the monastery, which
involved labor and material
contributions from 130,000 Tibetan
households. The Sakya Monastery as
the power center of the Sakya
Kingdom once ruled the whole Tibet
for more than a century.
When the visitor approaches this
massive structure, he will see a
great monastery in an imposing
square citadel. The outer wall is
painted red, white and black, each
representing the different
manifestations of Buddha, a unique
feature of Sakya. The Lakang Qinmu
Hall, the main structure in the
complex, occupies an area of 5,500
square meters with a height of over
10 meters. According to monastery
records, the hall had 108 giant
columns. Now there are only 40 left,
with many anecdotes about them. The
monastery wall is 10 meters high and
over three meters thick. The
northern and southern walls are 500
meters in length while the eastern
and western walls 300 meters. There
are a total of 40 fortresses and
four pillboxes along the entire
length of the wall and four gates
open in different directions. The
remains of a moat is still visible.
The entire complex gives a feeling
of solemnity laden with the weight
of history.
The Sakya Monastery is also known
for its collection of Tangkas and
scriptures. The monastery also has a
great collection of appointment
letters, official seals, head
decorations and costumes granted to
Sakya officials by the imperial
court of Yuan Dynasty, in addition
to Buddhist figurines, ceremonial
artifacts and porcelain ware from
the Song and Yuan dynasties onward.
The stupendous collection of books
over religion, history, medicine,
philosophy, calendar, theatre,
poetry, stories and grammar and rare
valuable source materials for the
study of ancient Tibetan culture.
The Sakya collection of Buddhist
scriptures is also the largest in
Tibet with a total of 40,000
volumes, of which over 10,000 are
kept in the main hall. They were
meticulously hand written in red and
black ink with many gold and silver
lettering by calligraphers called in
from all Tibet by Pagpa. The
scripture written on "Pattra" leaves
recently discovered is regarded as a
rare treasure. The murals and
tangkas in the monastery are unique,
of which a large mural of the five
Sakya founders and an exquisite
mural of mandal as are of particular
interest. A total of 40 tangkas
depicting the founders of Sakya
painted six centuries ago is a
treasure to the monastery. When the
visitor stands in front of the
pictures of these noted figures in
Tibetan history, he is bound to feel
the power of the glory of a bygone
era and of an art that shines
through the darkness of time. Sakya
can be compared to Dunhuang in
western China. In fact, it is
regarded as the second Dunhuang of
China.
Layout
Four buildings of the 13th-century
Southern Monastery remain, protected
by massive, windowless, fortress
wall with corner- a typical
Mongolian feature. Narthang
Monastery and, after being
devastated by an earthquake, Shalu
were built along the same lines as
Sakya. The gray and murky maroon hue
of the outer wall appears drab, but
theses two colors are favored
throughout the region, painted in
stripes on village walls, and the
colors have a peculiarly powerful
aesthetic impact.
Enter the monastery through the east
gateway, which leads to a huge open
courtyard. The first room to see is
on the left, up a steep flight of
stairs, after reaching the inner
courtyard through an enclosed
walkway. This is the Phuntsok
Podrang, which has stupas that honor
the relics of former Sakya Lama, and
a giant image of Kunga Nyingpo as a
venerable old man. He was a master
scholar of Sakya's great period,
equal in learning to Sakya Pandit.
He organized a systematic teaching
the tantras, and is always portrayed
as aged with white hair.
The next chapel, on the inner
courtyard's south side, is the
Pukhang, or Manjushri Chapel. An
enclose mandala is the centrepiece,
backed by two main images, a Jowo
Sakyamuni to the left and Manjushri,
the bodhisattva of wisdom, to the
right. It is said that Sakya Pandit
created these statues. Multiple
volumes that make up the Kanjur and
Tenjur are here, as are thousands of
small statues.
The Main Chanting Hall, or Lakhang
Chenmo, is wider than it is deep,
with columns made from whole tree
trunks. Daylight entering from high
windows illuminates a fine frieze of
Buddhas, saints, guardians and
Mongolian hierarchs, embellished by
lion decorations, near the ceiling
above the altar. Everything in the
room is big and gilded brass figures
placed high on the pillars and walls
increase the sense of space.
The two primary human figures, side
by side, are Sakya Pandit and Jungu
Choje. Sakya Pandit wears a red hat.
A statue of Kunga Nyingpo is raised
and to the right of these two. In
front of the altar are some Sakya's
treasures- artifacts of silver,
porcelain, ivory and shell. Jeweled
stupas holding the ashes of the
founders also indicate its former
wealth. The resplendent Chanting
Hall is among the finest, most
impressive in all Tibet. Take time
to look carefully and investigate
the many objects- ancient, refined,
outlandish, beautiful, weird.
The North Hall, or Ngudung Lakhang,
contains seven large stupas and four
lesser ones, the reliquaries of the
Throne Holders of the Sakya sect.
Restored murals show the family of
five Buddhas, a giant portrait of
Kunga Nyingpo and big, bold mandalas.
It is rare to see a portrait mural
of these dimensions in Tibet. A
mandala of colored sand is kept
permanently in a corner of the hall.
An inner chapel houses six large
white stupas containing the remains
of Sakya's early abbots.
The final room to visit is the Droma
Podrang, up a flight of stairs at
the northeast corner of the inner
courtyard. Here are excellent murals
and a statue of Padmasambhava ( Guru
Rinpoche). Five stupas of fine
construction also stand in this
worthy chapel.
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