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Traditional Tibetan
fare mainly consists of two basic
items, salted tea mixed with yak
butter, and tsampa. Tsampa is a
coarse flour made from parched
barley whose main virtues are that
it is nourishing and ( in a land
where fuel is scarce) it does not
need to be cooked. The tea, brewed
in water, comes from bricks of tea
has been a major trade item for over
800 years. The brewed tea is poured
into a long cylindrical churn make
of wood banded with brass, along
with salt and a small lump of
butter. After vigorous churning, the
opaque liquid is decanted into a
teapot or a thermos, where it is
kept for drinking throughout the
day. ( Sometimes a more concentrated
brew is made with added wood-ash
soda to bring out the colour, and
later churned with added hot water,
salt and butter.) The resulting
drink is more like bouillon than tea
as Westerners or Chinese know it.
The body needs this extra fat intake
to power its higher metabolic rate
at high altitude, especially in cold
weather. Tea provides a constant
source of hydration and is
everywhere socially important.
Mixed with ( tsampa, this tea makes
an edible paste. Add some dried yak
meat or chiura ( dried cheese crumbs
made from the residue of boiled
buttermilk ) and it with the fingers
of the right hand while the left
hand while the left hand rotates the
bowl; a visitor's first attempt at
this invariably dumps half the
contents on the floor, to gales of
laughter from his Tibetan hosts. The
best tsampa, like good coffee, is
fresh-roasted and ground, enough for
a week at a time, and has a nutty
flavor.
Drokpa ( nomad) yak-herders produce
a wonderful yoghurt from the thick
creamy milk produced by their drinks
( yak cows; a yak is actually a
bull). Its strong flavor comes from
the special process of manufacture.
The milk from the evening milking is
boiled, left in a pail overnight to
turn into yoghurt, and mixed with
boiled milk from the following
morning's milking before being
churned. It is this half-yoghurt
mixture, not rancidity, that gives
Tibetan butter its strong taste. In
eastern Tibet, the evening and
morning milk are churned separately
to produce sweet butter, sometimes
also found in the street market in
Lhasa. In some low valleys around
Lhasa, the milk comes from recently
introduced cattle herds.
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